Kaliuwaa: Scene of the Demigod Kamapuaa's Escape from Olopana

A few miles east of Laie, on the windward side of the island of Oahu, are situated the valley and falls of Kaliuwaa, noted as one of the most beautiful and romantic spots of the island, and famed in tradition as possessing more than local interest.

オアフ島の風上側、ライエの東数マイルのところに、カリウワアの谷と滝がある。島でもっとも美しく詩趣に富む場所のひとつとして知られ、また言い伝えのうえでも、その土地かぎりにとどまらぬ興味を持つものとして名高い。

The valley runs back some two miles, terminating abruptly at the foot of the precipitous chain of mountains which runs nearly the whole length of the windward side of Oahu, except for a narrow gorge which affords a channel for a fine brook that descends with considerable regularity to a level with the sea. Leaving his horse at the termination of the valley and entering this narrow pass of not over fifty or sixty feet in width, the traveller winds his way along, crossing and recrossing the stream several times, till he seems to be entering into the very mountain. The walls on each side are of solid rock, from two hundred to three hundred, and in some places four hundred feet high, directly overhead, leaving but a narrow strip of sky visible.

谷は二マイルほど奥へ入り、オアフの風上側をほぼ端から端まで走る険しい山々のふもとで、ふつりと途切れる。ただ一か所、狭い峡谷が開いていて、そこを美しい小川が、かなり規則正しく海と同じ高さまで下ってくる。谷の尽きるところに馬を残し、幅五、六十フィートを超えぬこの狭い隘路に入ると、旅人は流れを何度も渡り返しながら道をたどり、やがて山そのものの内へ入っていくように思われてくる。両側の壁は堅い岩で、真上に二、三百フィート、場所によっては四百フィートもの高さでそそり立ち、空はほんの細い帯しか見えない。

Following up the stream for about a quarter of a mile, one's attention is directed by the guide to a curiosity called by the natives a waa (canoe). Turning to the right, one follows up a dry channel of what once must have been a considerable stream, to the distance of fifty yards from the present stream. Here one is stopped by a wall of solid rock rising perpendicularly before one to the height of some two hundred feet, and down which the whole stream must have descended in a beautiful fall. This perpendicular wall is worn in by the former action of the water in the shape of a gouge, and in the most perfect manner; and as one looks upon it in all its grandeur, but without the presence of the cause by which it was formed, he can scarcely divest his mind of the impression that he is gazing upon some stupendous work of art.

流れを四分の一マイルほどさかのぼると、案内人が、土地の者がワア(舟)と呼ぶ珍しいものに目を向けさせる。右に折れて、かつてはかなりの流れだったにちがいない涸れ谷をたどり、今の流れから五十ヤードほど行く。するとそこで、堅い岩の壁が二百フィートほどの高さに垂直にそそり立って行く手をさえぎる。かつては流れがすべてこの壁を美しい滝となって下ったにちがいない。この垂直の壁は、昔の水の働きによって丸鑿の跡のような形に削り取られていて、それがこのうえなく完璧な形をしている。そしてその堂々たる姿を、それを作った当の原因が今は無いままに眺めていると、何か途方もない人の技を見つめているのだという思いを、どうしても振り払えない。

Returning to the present brook, we again pursued our way toward the fall, but had not advanced far before we arrived at another, on the left hand side of the brook, similar in many respects, but much larger and higher than the one above mentioned. The forming agent cannot be mistaken, when a careful survey is made of either of these stupendous perpendicular troughs. The span is considerably wider at the bottom than at the top, this result being produced by the spreading of the sheet of water as it was precipitated from the dizzy height above. The breadth of this one is about twenty feet at the bottom, and its depth about fourteen feet. But its depth and span gradually diminish from the bottom to the top, and the rock is worn as smooth as if chiselled by the hand of an artist. Moss and small plants have sprung out from the little soil that has accumulated in the crevices, but not enough to conceal the rock from observation. It would be an object worth the toil to discover what has turned the stream from its original channel.

今の小川に戻って、われわれはまた滝のほうへ道をたどったが、いくらも進まぬうちに、小川の左手に別のものにたどり着いた。多くの点でよく似ているが、さきのものよりずっと大きく、高い。この途方もない垂直の樋のどちらかを注意深く調べれば、それを作ったものが何かを見誤ることはない。差し渡しは上より下のほうがかなり広い。これは、目もくらむ高みから落ちてくるうちに水の帯が広がったためである。こちらの幅は下で二十フィートほど、深さは十四フィートほどである。けれども深さも幅も、下から上へ向かうにつれて次第に小さくなり、岩は職人の手で鑿を当てたかのようになめらかに磨かれている。割れ目にたまったわずかな土から苔や小さな草が生えているが、岩を隠してしまうほどではない。何が流れを元の道筋から変えたのかを突きとめることは、その労に値する仕事であろう。

Leaving this singular curiosity, we pursued our way a few yards farther, when we arrived at the fall. This is from eighty to one hundred feet high, and the water is compressed into a very narrow space just where it breaks forth from the rock above. It is quite a pretty sheet of water when the stream is high. We learned from the natives that there are two falls above this, both of which are shut out from the view from below, by a sudden turn in the course of the stream. The perpendicular height of each is said to be much greater than of the one we saw. The upper one is visible from the road on the seashore, which is more than two miles distant, and, judging from information obtained, must be between two and three hundred feet high. The impossibility of climbing the perpendicular banks from below deprived us of the pleasure of farther ascending the stream toward its source. This can be done only by commencing at the plain and following up one of the lateral ridges. This would itself be a laborious and fatiguing task, as the way would be obstructed by a thick growth of trees and tangled underbrush.

この奇妙な珍物を後にして数ヤード進むと、われわれは滝に着いた。高さは八十フィートから百フィートほどで、水は上の岩からほとばしり出るちょうどそのところで、たいそう狭い場所に押し込められている。流れの多いときには、なかなか美しい水の帯となる。土地の者から聞いたところでは、この上にさらに二つの滝があり、どちらも流れの向きが急に曲がっているために下からは見えないという。それぞれの垂直の高さは、われわれの見た滝よりもはるかに大きいと言われる。いちばん上のものは、二マイル以上離れた海辺の道から見え、聞いた話から判ずるに、高さは二、三百フィートのあいだにちがいない。下から垂直の岸を登ることはできないので、われわれは流れをさらに水源へさかのぼる楽しみを得られなかった。それをするには、平地から始めて横の尾根のひとつをたどるほかない。それ自体、骨の折れる疲れる仕事であろう。道は木々の密生と絡み合う下生えにさえぎられるからである。

The path leading to this fall is full of interest to any one who loves to study nature. From where we leave our horses at the head of the valley and commence entering the mountain, every step presents new and peculiar beauties. The most luxuriant verdure clothes the ground, and in some places the beautifully burnished leaves of the ohia, or native apple-tree (Eugenia malaccensis), almost exclude the few rays of light that find their way down into this secluded nook. A little farther on, and the graceful bamboo sends up its slender stalk to a great height, mingling its dark, glossy foliage with the silvery leaves of the kukui, or candle-nut (Aleurites moluccana); these together form a striking contrast to the black walls which rise in such sullen grandeur on each side.

この滝へ通じる道は、自然を眺めることを好む者には興趣に満ちている。谷の奥で馬を残し、山に分け入りはじめるところから、一歩ごとに新しく独特の美しさが現れる。このうえなく豊かな緑が地を覆い、ところによっては、オヒア、すなわち土地の林檎の木(ユウゲニア・マラケンシス)の美しく艶やかな葉が、この人里離れた奥へわずかに射し込む光をほとんどさえぎってしまう。もう少し行くと、優美な竹が細い幹を高々と伸ばし、その暗く光沢のある葉を、ククイ、すなわち蝋燭の実の木(アレウリテス・モルッカナ)の銀色の葉と混ぜ合わせている。これらが合わさって、両側にむっつりと堂々とそそり立つ黒い壁と、際立った対照をなしている。

Nor is the beauty of the spot confined to the luxuriant verdure, or the stupendous walls and beetling crags. The stream itself is beautiful. From the basin at the falls to the lowest point at which we observed it, every succeeding step presents a delightful change. Here, its partially confined waters burst forth with considerable force, and struggle on among the opposing rocks for some distance; there, collected in a little basin, its limpid waves, pure as the drops of dew from the womb of the morning, circle round in ceaseless eddies, until they get within the influence of the downward current, when away they whirl, with a gurgling, happy sound, as if joyous at being released from their temporary confinement. Again, an aged kukui, whose trunk is white with the moss of accumulated years, throws his broad boughs far over the stream that nourishes his vigorous roots, casting a meridian shadow upon the surface of the water, which is reflected back with singular distinctness from its mirrored bosom.

この場所の美しさは、豊かな緑や、途方もない壁と突き出た岩だけにとどまらない。流れそのものが美しい。滝壺からわれわれが目にしたいちばん下の地点まで、一歩進むごとに心楽しい移り変わりがある。あるところでは、半ば閉じ込められた水がかなりの勢いでほとばしり出て、行く手をさえぎる岩のあいだをしばらくもがき進む。またあるところでは、小さな壺に集まって、朝の胎から生まれた露の粒のように清らかな澄んだ波が、絶え間ない渦を描いて回り、やがて下る流れの力に捕らえられると、束の間の閉じ込めから解き放たれたのを喜ぶかのように、ごぼごぼと楽しげな音を立てて渦巻き去っていく。またあるところでは、幹が積もる年月の苔で白くなった老いたククイが、その丈夫な根を養う流れの上へ大きく枝を張り出し、水面に真昼の影を落とす。その影は、鏡のような水の胸から不思議なほどくっきりと照り返される。

To every other gratification must be added the incomparable fragrance of the fresh wood, in perpetual life and vigor, which presents a freshness truly grateful to the senses. But it is in vain to think of conveying an adequate idea of a scene where the sublime is mingled with the beautiful, and the bold and striking with the delicate and sensitive; where every sense is gratified, the mind calmed, and the whole soul delighted.

ほかのあらゆる喜びに加えて、絶えず生気にあふれた瑞々しい森の、たとえようもない香りを挙げねばならない。それは五感にまことにありがたい清々しさをもたらす。けれども、崇高なものと美しいものが混ざり合い、大胆で人目を引くものと繊細で感じやすいものが混ざり合う情景を、ありのままに伝えようと思うのはむだである。そこではあらゆる感覚が満たされ、心は鎮まり、魂のすべてが喜ぶのである。

Famed as this spot is for its natural scenic attractions, intimated in the foregoing description, its claim of distinction with Hawaiians is indelibly fixed by the traditions of ancient times, the narration of which, at this point, will assist the reader to understand the character of the native mind and throw some light also on the history of the Hawaiians.

右の記述に示したとおり、この場所は自然の眺めの魅力で名高いが、ハワイの人々にとっての格別さは、いにしえの言い伝えによって消しがたく定まっている。ここでそれを語ることは、読者が土地の人の心根を理解する助けとなり、またハワイの人々の歴史にもいくらか光を投げるだろう。

Tradition in this locality deals largely with Kamapuaa, the famous demigod whose exploits figure prominently in the legends of the entire group. Summarized, the story is about as follows:

この土地の言い伝えは、その手柄が島々じゅうの伝説に大きく現れる名高い半神、カマプアアをおもに扱う。かいつまめば、話はおよそ次のとおりである。

Kamapuaa, the fabulous being referred to, seems, according to the tradition, to have possessed the power of transforming himself into a hog, in which capacity he committed all manner of depredations upon the possessions of his neighbors. He having stolen some fowls belonging to Olopana, who was the King of Oahu, the latter, who was then living at Kaneohe, sent some of his men to secure the thief. They succeeded in capturing him, and having tied him fast with cords, were bearing him in triumph to the King, when, thinking they had carried the joke far enough, he burst the bands with which he was bound, and killed all the men except one, whom he permitted to convey the tidings to the King. This defeat so enraged the monarch that he determined to go in person with all his force, and either destroy his enemy, or drive him from his dominions. He accordingly, despising ease inglorious,

ここに言うカマプアアという不思議な者は、言い伝えによれば、自分を豚に変える力を持っていたらしく、その姿で隣人たちの持ち物にありとあらゆる狼藉を働いた。オアフの王であったオロパナの鶏を何羽か盗んだので、当時カネオヘに住んでいた王は、この盗人を捕らえるために家来を送った。家来たちは首尾よく捕らえ、縄でしっかり縛って、意気揚々と王のもとへ運んでいった。ところが、悪ふざけもここまでにしようと思ったカマプアアは、縛られていた縄をはち切り、一人を除いてすべての家来を殺した。その一人には王へ知らせを運ぶことを許した。この敗北に王はたいそう怒り、全軍を率いて自ら出向き、敵を滅ぼすか、領地から追い払うかしようと心を決めた。そこで安逸の名誉なきをさげすみ、

Waked up, with sound of conch and trumpet shell, The well-tried warriors of his native dell,

ほら貝とらっぱ貝の音に呼び起こす、故郷の谷の鍛えぬかれた戦士らを、

at whose head he sought his waiting enemy. Success attending the King's attack, his foe was driven from the field with great loss, and betook himself to the gorge of Kaliuwaa, which leads to the falls. Here the King thought he had him safe; and one would think so too, to look at the immense precipices that rise on each side, and the falls in front. But the sequel will show that he had a slippery fellow to deal with, at least when he chose to assume the character of a swine; for, being pushed to the upper end of the gorge near the falls, and seeing no other way of escape, he suddenly transformed himself into a hog, and, rearing upon his hind legs and leaning his back against the perpendicular precipice, thus afforded a very comfortable ladder upon which the remnant of the army ascended and made their escape from the vengeance of the King. Possessing such powers, it is easy to see how he could follow the example of his soldiers and make his own escape. The smooth channels before described are said to have been made by him on these occasions; for he was more than once caught in the same predicament. Old natives still believe that they are the prints of his back; and they account for a very natural phenomenon, by bringing to their aid this most natural and foolish superstition.

その先頭に立って、待ち受ける敵のもとへ向かった。王の攻めは功を奏し、敵は大きな損害を受けて戦場から追われ、滝へ通じるカリウワアの峡谷に逃げ込んだ。ここで王は、敵をしかと追いつめたと思った。両側にそそり立つ巨大な断崖と、正面の滝を見れば、誰でもそう思うだろう。けれどもこの先を見れば、王が相手にしていたのが、少なくとも豚の姿を取ると決めたときには、なんともとらえどころのない男であったことが分かる。というのも、滝の近くの峡谷のいちばん奥まで追いつめられ、ほかに逃れる道がないと見るや、カマプアアは突然自分を豚に変え、後ろ足で立ち上がって背を垂直の断崖にもたせかけ、こうしてたいそう具合のよい梯子をこしらえたのである。生き残った手下たちはそれを登って、王の復讐から逃れた。そのような力を持っているのだから、カマプアア自身も兵たちにならって逃げおおせたであろうことは、たやすく分かる。さきに述べたなめらかな樋は、そのときにカマプアアが作ったものだと言われている。同じ窮地に陥ったことが一度ならずあったからである。土地の年寄りたちは今もそれがカマプアアの背中の跡だと信じていて、まことに自然な現象を、このうえなく手近で愚かしい俗信の助けを借りて説き明かしている。

Many objects in the neighborhood are identified with this remarkable personage, such as a large rock to which he was tied, a wide place in the brook where he used to drink, and a number of trees he is said to have planted. Many other things respecting him are current, but as they do not relate to the matter in hand, it will perhaps suffice to say, in conclusion, that tradition further asserts that Kamapuaa conquered the volcano, when Pele its goddess became his wife, and that they afterward lived together in harmony. That is the reason why there are no more islands formed, or very extensive eruptions in these later days, as boiling lava was the most potent weapon she used in fighting her enemies, throwing out such quantities as greatly to increase the size of the islands, and even to form new ones.

このあたりの多くのものが、この並はずれた人物と結びつけられている。縛りつけられた大きな岩、水を飲んだという小川の広くなった場所、植えたと言われる数々の木などである。カマプアアについてはほかにも多くのことが語られているが、今の話には関わらないので、最後にこう言えば足りるだろう。言い伝えはさらに、カマプアアが火山を征服し、その女神ペレが妻となって、二人はその後むつまじく暮らしたと伝えている。近ごろ島がもう新しくできることもなく、たいそう大きな噴火も起こらないのはそのためである。煮えたぎる溶岩こそ、ペレが敵と戦うときに用いたもっとも強い武器であり、それを大量に噴き出して島を大いに広げ、新しい島さえ作っていたのだから。

Visitors to the falls, even to this day, meet with evidences of the superstitious awe in which the locality is held by the natives. A party who recently visited the spot state that when they reached the falls they were instructed to make an offering to the presiding goddess. This was done in true Hawaiian style; they built a tiny pile of stones on one or two large leaves, and so made themselves safe from falling stones, which otherwise would assuredly have struck them.

この滝を訪れる者は、今日でも、土地の人々がこの場所に対して抱く迷信深い畏れの証に出会う。最近この場所を訪れた一行の話によると、滝に着いたとき、この地を司る女神に供え物をするようにと教えられたという。それはまさにハワイ流のやり方で行われた。一行は大きな葉を一枚か二枚敷いてその上に小さな石の山を積み、こうして落ちてくる石から身を守った。そうしなければ、必ず石に打たれていたはずだというのである。